devil's Workshop

One of the biggest improvements over the Cauldron Creep 1.0 was the new neck mechanism I created in Cauldron Creep 2.0. The new design is easy to build, fast to assemble and doesn't requires a giant hump to hide. I know, I KNOW...the hump is part of the charm, but I like medium sized humps. The Frame The frame is based of measurements from a Bucky 4th quality skeleton. Why is it important to mention it is 4th quality? 4th quality means you will have warped bones, poorly installed hardware, and who knows what else and this make them all kinda of unique in a way the would infuriate an engineer. So use the measurements for the legs and arm as guidelines, maybe add and inch or two for good measure then cut down as you fit the bones to the frame. (fitting bones to the frames will be in another post). It's hard to see the details here so make sure to download the Cauldron Creep 3.0 How-To PDF. The How-to is being updated as new sections are added, such as how to wire the led eyes, ma...

It's been hectic for the last few months and it's only going to get worse so I am trying to squeeze this into one afternoon. I took pictures and measurements the last few times I made a cauldron creep. My creeps have been based off of the dimensions of the " Bucky " anatomical skeleton. If you have a costco/walgreens posable skeleton you have to make adjustments for the length to arms legs and torso height. What I have managed to assemble here is the diagrams I had made for the neck mechanism and cauldron motor. I tried to make them clear but you know how sometime you either over think it or because you know the subject so well you skip over important things. If you have question I'll try to answer them. Here is the parts list for the cauldron motor assembly: 10” to 12” section of 3/8 in. W x 1/2 in. H Aluminum C-Channel with 1/16 in. Thick Home Depot Model # 96390 2” to 3” PCV end cap 2 1” x 1.5” x 3” length of oak, walnut, or other hardwood 2 1” x 1.5” x 2.5” l...